COTOPAXI5,897 M
Five days from Quito to the crater rim of one of the world's highest active volcanoes — a glacier school and a non-technical summit climb in the tropical Andes.
Duration
5 days
Grade
Advanced · High Altitude
Altitude
5,897 M (19,347 FT)
Season
NOVEMBER – FEBRUARY · JUNE – AUGUST
(01) Overview
A glaciated 6,000er in five days.
Cotopaxi (5,897 m / 19,347 ft) is one of the highest active volcanoes on the planet and the most iconic summit of Ecuador's Avenue of the Volcanoes. Heavily glaciated, remote in feel and yet remarkably accessible, it is the ideal mountain on which to learn and practise the skills of high-altitude climbing — inside a single long weekend.
A compact expedition The team meets in Quito, then moves up to the Cotopaxi National Park, where we stay at the Tambopaxi lodge at around 4,000 m with the whole route in view from the dining room. From there we run a full skills programme on the glacier and launch the summit push, returning to Quito for a celebration dinner with the team.
Skills on the glacier Our Ecuadorian guides teach and drill crampon and ice-axe technique, self-arrest, efficient movement on snow and ice, rope-team travel, snow and ice anchors and crevasse rescue. This training is what makes you a competent member of the rope team on Cotopaxi and on future expeditions.
Summit day A midnight start gives plenty of time on the mountain. Small rope teams cross scree to the glacier and wind up through progressively steeper, crevassed terrain. By dawn the team is below the final headwall — some 250 vertical metres of the steepest climbing on the mountain — before stepping onto the crater rim, with the active crater below and volcanoes stretching to the horizon.
Activities and Risks Glacier mountaineering with crampons, ice axe and rope teams; acclimatization hiking; lodge-based logistics; road travel across the highlands. Risks include altitude illness, crevasse fall, cold and high wind on summit day, intense equatorial UV and objective volcanic hazards.
(02) Highlights
Trip highlights.
- 01Summit one of the world's highest active volcanoes at 5,897 m / 19,347 ft
- 02A full glacier skills day before the summit push — no technical experience required
- 03Lodge-based comfort at Tambopaxi with the entire route in view
- 04Small rope teams led by certified Ecuadorian mountain guides
- 05Midnight start, sunrise on the headwall and views over the crater
- 06Itineraries can be extended with extra acclimatization or a second volcano
(03) Day by day
Itinerary.
- Day 01ARRIVE IN QUITO
Arrival in Quito (2,850 m). Airport pick-up, transfer to the hotel and welcome briefing with the guide team. Hotel night.
- Day 02DRIVE TO TAMBOPAXI · SKILLS
After breakfast, gear check and drive into Cotopaxi National Park to the Tambopaxi lodge (approx. 4,000 m), with a full view of the route. Afternoon of mountain skills — rope-team travel and crevasse rescue — and equipment preparation. Lodge night.
- Day 03GLACIER SKILLS DAY
Early start for the hour-long hike to the toe of the glacier. Morning practising glacier travel: self-arrest with the ice axe, efficient cramponing, anchors and rope work. Descent to the lodge for lunch, rest and the summit briefing. Lodge night.
- Day 04SUMMIT DAY · 5,897 M
Wake around midnight for a hot drink and set off in small rope teams. The route crosses scree to the glacier and climbs progressively steeper, crevassed slopes; by dawn the team is below the final headwall — about 250 m of the steepest climbing — leading to the crater rim. Descent to the refuge and on to the hotel to celebrate.
- Day 05DEPART FROM QUITO
Transfer to the airport and end of the program, or continuation onto an extension or a second volcano.
(04) Logistics
What's included.
Included
- +Certified Ecuadorian mountain guides, with a 1:2 ratio on summit day
- +All expedition organisation, permits and National Park fees
- +Land transport within Ecuador from Quito
- +Lodging on a shared basis: hotel in Quito and mountain lodge in the park
- +Meals as indicated in the itinerary during the mountain phase
- +Group equipment: ropes, hardware and all supplies needed for a safe summit bid
- +Pre-trip briefing, gear check and route planning
Not included
- −International flights to and from Quito
- −Meals and drinks not specified in the itinerary
- −Extra nights of accommodation outside the program dates
- −Travel insurance, including medical evacuation and trip cancellation
- −Personal climbing gear per the recommended Gear List
- −Tips for guides and local staff, and personal expenses
- −Any costs associated with early departure from the expedition
(05) Gear & safety
Gear
- Mountaineering boots suitable for glacier travel, plus step-in crampons and a walking ice axe.
- Climbing harness, helmet and two locking carabiners — rope-team hardware is reviewed on the skills day.
- Layered clothing: base layers, fleece or synthetic insulation, a light down jacket and a waterproof GORE-TEX shell jacket and pants. No cotton.
- Glove system: liner, midweight and warm mitts. Warm hat, buff and balaclava for the pre-dawn summit hours.
- Category 4 glacier glasses and goggles — equatorial UV is extreme. High-factor sunscreen and lip protection.
- Headlamp with spare batteries, insulated bottle, 35–45 L pack and trekking poles. Full gear list sent after registration.
Safety
- Certified guides with glacier rescue and Wilderness First Responder training
- Small rope teams and a 1:2 guide ratio on summit day
- A dedicated skills day on the glacier before any summit attempt
- Daily health checks: oxygen saturation, heart rate and altitude symptom monitoring
- Radios, medical kit and supplementary oxygen carried by the guide team
- Lodge-based logistics allowing a fast descent, plus a coordinated evacuation protocol — travel insurance with medical evacuation is mandatory
(06) FAQ
Questions.
Do I need technical climbing experience?+
No technical climbing experience is required. All glacier skills — cramponing, self-arrest, rope-team travel and crevasse rescue — are taught and drilled on the skills day before the summit push.
How fit do I need to be?+
Very fit. Fitness is the single most important factor in high-altitude climbing: summit day is 8 to 12 hours of movement at altitude. Train consistently for several months before the trip with a structured endurance and strength programme.
Do I need previous altitude experience?+
Previous experience above 4,000 m is strongly recommended for the 5-day format. If you are new to altitude we can extend the itinerary with additional acclimatization hikes around Quito, or you can join our 15-day Ecuador Volcanoes program.
When is the best season?+
The most stable windows are November to February and June to August. We schedule departures inside those windows.
Where do we sleep?+
A hotel in Quito at the start and end, and the Tambopaxi mountain lodge inside Cotopaxi National Park during the climbing phase — comfortable beds, hot meals and the whole route in view.
How much does the program cost?+
The price depends on the size of your group and the dates chosen — larger groups get lower per-person rates. Contact us with your group size and preferred dates and we will send a detailed quotation.
(07) Request this expedition
Ready for Cotopaxi?
Tell us your group size, target dates and objectives. Our basecamp team replies within 48 hours with a tailored proposal.